Morrocan breviary #1: Essaouira iftar

Essauoira. May 2019 is ending. Iftar * at the beach. Time seems to be on a long pause. Beside the slow waves and the sunset light at the beach, Iftar time give to me this unique opportunity to enjoy silence. An special kind of silence. A pristine silence. Non destination silence. No even human silence. Ramadan* silence follow me and I follow him. We talk and we trust each other.

If you want schedules and formal time, is imposible to define.  This silence, as moon calendary, have everything except precision. Just wait and enjoy  this silence. Just feel it. Could be start with the mosque call to prayer (adhan) at 19:37 and finish when motorcycles and tuktuks appear on the roads again. You gonna feel it.

When silence is gone, you discover the night. Suppose to be the end of the day but …what define day and night? Just because of the lights? Because of the darkness? Day’s / night’s Ramadan are much more than a sort of finish line. It seems to me like a gate to new dusks and dawns revelations. Night became day and the moon is no longer an invited. Moon became the queen of the party.

In Morocco, nights are my friends. They embrace me and teach me. No more darkness at the Medina. Nights are so alive, specially during Ramadan! Streets are showing all the food and the people that they hide during the day. So is time to move and walk into the Medina.

Pictures change at every moment, in every corner. And is never, never the same mixture but the basic elements are there, like in a theater stage: poverty and hunger; laughings and hugs; spices and teapots; soccer balls and children; loving couples and tourists selfies.

Pictures go and back in every corner: two beggars, three… too many beggars seated on the streets. You cannot forget theirs dark hands asking for money or help. And suddenly, music. Drums and flutes, guitars and violins shine in to the african night.

When silence gone, music arrive. When is Ramadan, when you need to open your eyes to receive the moroccan experience, trust me, is all up to you. Bslama!

* iftar or ftour means “breakfast” in arabic. During the holy Ramadan month, is the first meal that Muslims take to “break” every day’s fast.

*Ramadan 2019 (sacred ninth month in the muslim lunar calendar) start the evening may 6th to june 4th. Ending date can change, anyway. Eid al-Fitr is the meal and celebration that end the Ramadan.


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